Tennis racket glossary
Short explanations of the terms you meet on racket pages and in shop listings. Where there is a longer guide, you can follow it from the term.
- Balance (head light / head heavy)
The distance from the butt of the handle to the racket’s centre of mass. On a 27 inch (68.6 cm) racket the exact middle is about 343 mm; a racket that balances closer to the handle is head light (HL), one closer to the head is head heavy (HH). Head light feels more nimble, head heavy more powerful.
Read the full guide- Beam width
The thickness of the frame profile in millimetres. A thick beam is usually stiffer and more powerful, a thin one more flexible and controlled. Makers often give three numbers instead of one, such as "23 / 26 / 23": the top of the head, the middle and the throat.
- Grip size (L0–L5)
The circumference of the handle. In Europe it runs from L0 to L5 (L2 is about 4 1/4 inch); in the US the same sizes are written in inches. If unsure, take the smaller one: an overgrip makes a handle thicker easily, but it cannot be made thinner.
Read the full guide- Head size
The area of the string bed, written in square inches (in²) or cm²; 100 in² is about 645 cm². A bigger head widens the sweet spot and forgives off-centre hits, a smaller one gives more control.
Read the full guide- Length (standard / extended)
A standard adult racket is 27 inches (68.6 cm). Rackets longer than 27 inches are called extended; they give more reach and power but are harder to swing. The International Tennis Federation caps rackets at 29 inches. Junior rackets run from 19 to 26 inches and are chosen by height or age.
Read the full guide- Overgrip
A thin tape wrapped over the racket’s original grip. It absorbs sweat, refreshes the feel and makes the handle slightly thicker. Unlike the original grip (the replacement grip), it is changed often.
Read the full guide- Stiffness (RA)
The RA value, which shows how much the frame bends when it meets the ball. A low RA is flexible and passes less vibration to the arm; a high RA is stiffer and usually more powerful but harder on the arm. On this site 64 and under counts as comfortable.
Read the full guide- String pattern (16×19)
The number of vertical (main) and horizontal (cross) strings: 16×19 means 16 mains and 19 crosses. An open pattern (16×19, 16×18) gives more spin and power; a dense one (18×20) is more controlled and the strings last longer.
Read the full guide- String tension
The force the strings are pulled to on the racket (kg or lb): a lower tension gives more power and comfort, a higher one more control.
Read the full guide- Sweet spot
The zone on the string bed where the ball comes off strongest, cleanest and with the least vibration. It grows with head size; further from the centre the racket starts to twist, and the shot gets weaker and harder on the arm.
Read the full guide- Swingweight
How hard the racket is to swing around an axis near the butt of the handle, given in kg·cm². A high swingweight means a racket that plows through the ball, so it is more stable and powerful but harder to swing; a low one makes it nimble. Makers measure it in different ways, so use the numbers to compare rackets from the same source.
Read the full guide- Unstrung weight
The racket’s weight in grams without strings. Strings, a bumper and the grip add about 15–20 g. Makers usually list the unstrung weight, so make sure two rackets are listed the same way before you compare them.
Read the full guide
Find a racket that fits these numbers
You do not have to memorise every term: the Racket Finder works the numbers out for you.
Start the Racket Finder